Gear

Gear, gear, and more gear. For a while I've had to borrow gear from friends whenever I wanted to climb or mess around in the winter. So when I started buying gear for this trip I basically had to start from scratch. This is a pretty unique trip so a lot of the required gear isn't offered anywhere local. Throw in the fact that I'm 6'4", 180 lbs, and have a sz 14.5 foot, this process can get pretty frustrating. I basically had to buy multiple sizes of multiple styles, try them all on, and return the ones that didn't fit. My struggle trying to find double plastic mountaineering boots was by far the most frustrating. I can probably list three or four websites that have probably blacklisted me, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

A few things I've learned in this process:
  • If you have a local REI, buy as much as you can from them. They take returns no matter what. This is key because often times once you wear something outside, you can't return it. Not the case at REI. They have a no-questions-asked return policy. Join the co-op and you get 10% back at the end of the year. AND...they have free shipping to the store. You might spend a bit more, but is saves a ton of hastle.
  • Spend the money the first time and get quality stuff. It will last longer, perform better, and allow you to experience more. Don't look at your credit card statement...just buy it. One word...Arcteryx. If they offer something for the gear you want, get it. In my opinion they are IT. The stuff is the highest quality out there and absolutely bombproof. My Arcteryx hardshells have withstood some pretty unique Alpine conditions. Most notably was last weekend which included post-hole hiking in 1-2 ft of snow, torrential downpouring rain and sleet, and wind gusts up to 50 mph for about 10 hours. Everything they protected stayed perfectly dry. I can't say the same for some of my other gear.
  • When purchasing my outdoor gear, I focused on the following in the order listed. 1) Fit. I'm a picky picky guy when it comes to fit. Not too baggy, not too tight, just right. 2) Quality This stuff needs to perform. Read the reviews, post questions on forums, and do some research. The internet has it all. 3) Appearance. If it comes down to this, you might as well like the way you look.

So below are some of the key pieces of gear that passed the test and will be joining me on this trip.

Clothing
Hard Shell Jacket: Arcteryx Theta AR Jacket
Hard Shell Pants (Bibs): Arcteryx Theta SV Bib
Down Jacket: Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero SL Hooded Jacket
Soft Shell Jacket: Mountain Hardwear Alchemy Jacket
Soft Shell Pant: Mammut Champ Pants
Expedition Weight Fleece Suit: Outdoor Research Saturn Suit
High Altitude Mitts: Outdoor Research Alti Mitts
High Altitude Gloves: Outdoor Research Alti Gloves
Soft Shell Gloves: Mountain Hardwear Torsion Glove
High Altitude Double Boots: La Sportiva Baruntse

Camping
Down Sleeping Bag: Mountain Hardwear Wraith SL -20F
Bivy Sack: Outdoor Research Alpine Bivy
Expedition Tent: Mountain Hardwear EV2 (Thanks 007)
Expedition Tent: Mountain Hardwear Annapurna (Jason's)
International Expedition Stove: MSR XGK-EX
Expedition Pack: Gregory Whitney
Day Pack: REI Flash 30

Climbing
Climbing Harness: Black Diamond Alpine Bod
Crampons: Grivel G12
Trekking Poles: Black Diamond Contour Elliptic
Ice Axe: Black Diamond Venom (w Adze and Tech Pick)
Ice Tool: Black Diamond Viper (w Hammer, Thanks Jason)

Misc.
Pulse Oximeter: Nonin GO2
Solar Charger: Solar Blatz Feather 5

The complete gear list can be found here under the gear list worksheet.  Below are a few good online retailers.

Altrec
Backcountry
E-OMC
Gear X
REI
Whittaker Mountaineering
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